Cosyn Cymru

Cosyn Cymru is a small-scale ewe’s milk cheese producer located in Bethesda, near Bangor. Cheesemaker Carrie Rimes collaborates with two local dairy farms to produce unpasteurised ewe’s milk cheese and yogurt. Carrie experimented with cheesemaking on the farm she grew up on and gained hands-on experience by volunteering at various fromageries in central France.

With a background in environmental science, Carrie brings a deep understanding of seasonal adaptability to her craft, ensuring the consistent quality of Cosyn Cymru’s small-batch products, despite seasonal variations. This expertise is reflected in their award-winning cheeses, such as Brefu Bach. In recognition of her work, Carrie was named the BBC Food and Farming Awards’ ‘Best Food Producer’ in 2023.

A little while ago we caught up with Carrie, and asked her to talk about her cheesemaking journey in her own words…..

Why did you start Cosyn Cymru?

Growing up on a farm, I’d experimented with cheesemaking as a child, but it wasn’t until many years later, when my son Patrick left home, that I decided to go for it. I was also looking for a career change after 24 years working in conservation – so the timing seemed right.

How did you learn about cheesemaking?

I decided to go to France to gain experience. I spent some time WWOOFing (volunteering through World Wide Opportunities on Organic Farms) on four different farms, learning traditional methods and local recipes, then returned to work on one farm in Auvergne, where the owner Raphael let me take charge of the dairy! Without that experience I wouldn’t be where I am now. I was very surprised when years later, my cheese Brefu Bach was exported back to France, to Paris via Neal’s Yard in London, and I received brilliant feedback! I’m exceptionally proud to have the French seal of approval.

Where does the name Brefu Bach come from?

The name Brefu Bach has numerous meanings. It’s imperfect Welsh for ‘little bleat’, reflecting the fact that it’s a young ewe’s milk cheese. But it also echoes the French name for little sheep’s cheese, ‘petit brebis’ – and the double ‘B’ pays homage to BB, a cheesemaker I met in France, whose lactic cheese recipe was the inspiration for my own Brefu Bach.

What do you like to eat with Brefu Bach?

Brefu changes with age, so it depends. Younger, creamier ones go well on a savoury cheese board, but also pair beautifully with honey or fruit purees. The more mature Brefu is dryer, so goes nicely in salads or mixed into a stir fry. You can bake Brefu like camembert too – delicious!

What’s special about producing cheese in Wales?

For me, what pleases me more than anything is being able to work with local, small-scale, low-intensity producers who care about the environment and animal welfare as much as I do. Large-scale intensive farming isn’t the answer. We’re trying to create a system where rural communities can thrive, remaining economically viable while keeping impact low. If I can make a half-decent cheese in the process, even better!